Reviews. Resources. Specifications.

Dovpo LVT Modifications

These are ever so slight modifications to a nearly perfect Advanced Personal Vaporizer.

I have reviewed two of these units. The first one was bright blue and the second medium gray. The only difference between them is in included accessories. The latest one, the medium gray unit, does not include O rings but does include two screws for the battery cover. Everything else remains the same including a really nice gift box, manual, water resistance poster and multi-head USB cable.

As I pointed out in the previous two reviews, there are two annoying aspects of the Dovpo E LVT. One of these is the result of a poor design on a nitty little silicone cover, the second is a result of cutting corners on assembly.

The first issue I noticed after four days of using the Dovpo E LVT. I used four heavier than normal clearomizers and one RBA with the E LVT. After four days, the unit developed a bit of a rattle, no noise, just a rattle that you could feel. I don't know about you, but anything that rattles needs fixing. I'm so impressed with the E LVT, I wanted it to be as perfect as possible. The second issue is one that just was frustrating. On one side of the E LVT, there are USB input and output ports (plus one switch). The switch is to control the output port so that you can use the E LVT as a power bank and recharge your cell phone or other USB device. The output port is a standard USB port. The input port is for a Micro USB connector to recharge the 18650 battery housed in the E LVT. The problem is one of poor design: the silicone part that covers the USB ports and switch to maintain water resistance is on a silicone swivel post that is too close to the USB input port. The USB input is the port that will get the most use – likely daily. The silicone swivel port really should have been designed to swivel nearer to either the switch or the output USB port that get used less often. Not only is it in the wrong location, but it does not completely swivel out of the way – it partially obstructs the input USB port.

So, let's start in exactly the same order I did. Despite being annoyed with the silicone USB cover, what really got me motivated to open up the E LVT was the rattle. There are no videos or other instructions on doing this anywhere, so I proceeded with some caution.

The first thing I did was remove the battery cover and battery. Once you do that, you will notice four screws on the housing around the battery. They are quite visible, you can't miss them.

I removed all four screws. 

I've done a fair amount of electronics work in the past. The one thing to be careful about when taking electronics apart, without a manual, is breaking wires or electronic components when removing covers and plates. I was really careful with the E LVT. I first pried about a 1/16th inch gap at the bottom on the USB port side and then make that slightly wider as I was peering inside for loose springs, wires, or other electronics. 

The cover lifted easily on the USB port side. It seemed from the view on this side that all of the electronic components were on front part with the battery side being nothing more than a cover.

The cover was a bit more difficult on the firing button side. The "screen" portion is retained in place with a double-sided tape. A portion of this "screen" is adhearing to both portions of the case. I used an Xacto blade to lightly lift the screen on the back cover. Once I had the double-sided tape lifted from the back cover, it came apart quite easily. You can see that from the picture at the right.

On the firing button side there are three buttons. A couple of notes here:

  1. The main firing button is flanged. The slot that it sits in is on both sides of the cover. It should remain with the front case, but don't worry if it doesn't ... just put it on the front side if it either slips out. It's just a button, it doesn't have any wires.
  2. The two other buttons are the + (plus) and - (minus) smaller buttons at the bottom of the screen. One each of those buttons sits into a pocket hole on one cover, and the same on the other cover. Each cover has one button. The buttons fit into holes in the cover. You want to be careful that these don't fall out of either the screen or the pocket holes. They are a bit on the small side and could be lost. If they do fall out, don't worry about it. A pair of tweezers will get them back in place. Again, no wires, they are just buttons that push against a micro switch.

I then focused my attention on the connector at the top where the rattle was. I thought that there would have been a retainer nut on the bottom to tighten ... but the connector top is just pressed in place. What holds it in place is a fairly small zinc metal base. The silicone would provide no support whatsoever. I decided to use a bit of silicone gel between the connector and the zinc allow, sort of like a glue, but removable if needed.

One side of the case came away from the connector fairly easily, so I just carefully pried the connector off the other side of the case ... by the way, the only tools I have used to this point are described above: a philips screwdriver and an xacto knife blade. Prying the connector was strictly by hand with very little pressure. 

I just lifted it about 1/8th of an inch so that I could see if there were any other wires underneath. None, however, you can see that there isn't much play in the wires that are visible, so don't move the connector too far. You only need to expose the zinc allow under the connector by a little bit.

I used a bit of silicone gel (Plumber's Goop, Automotive Silicone, etc.). Just a dab really. Since this is a press fit, using just a drop of the silicone gel will spread through the entire fitting. Use too much and you get sloppy gel to wipe off. Once I had a dab under the connector, I replaced that. 

Before I put a dab on the visible side, I noticed that the USB silicone cover had a stem backed by an arrow head to retain it place so that it could swivel. I decided to pop that out and take a closer look to see if it could be modified in any way. From the back side, I used a flat point paper clip (straightened out) to gently push the silicone arrow head while putting a bit of pulling pressure on the cover itself. Push on the arrow head, pull on the cover – gently. I went around the entire head of the arrow and managed to get the silicone cover out intact with the arrow head undamaged. I decided to trim back some of the arrow part so that it would be straighter, but still retain a bit of an enlarged area so that it wouldn't just come out automatically (could still be used as a swivel). I used a small part of scissors and trimmed the edge of the arrow only.

Look at the picture at the right. The blue silicone cover is from the E LVT that I had already modified. The medium gray silicone cover is from the latest E LVT that I just got and before I modified it. On the gray silicone cover you can readily see the arrow head. That's what I mean about modifying the arrow head. The overall length of the stem is the same, it's just the portion that hooks to the back of the zinc allow that I trimmed away. Overall, there is hardly any material being removed, just enough so that it can pull out of the zinc alloy hole without breaking the stem.

I then inserted the silicone cover back and tried my mod out. Absolutely perfect fit and easy to either leave in or take out.

Back to the top connector. It's now time to put the final dab of silicone gel on the connector that you can see. Since the zinc-allow case is not in place, you will be putting this directly on the connector below the ridge where the zinc allow portion of the case will sit. Just a little dab. Once you put the cover back on and screw it in place, the silicone gel will spread around the connector and "glue" it in place.

Time for re-assembly. You want to do this in exact reverse order from the disassembly. First, start by positioning the cover on the firing switch side. This is the finicky part. You need to lift the screen enough to get the buttons under it. Do that it it just slides into place. As long as the smaller buttons are in the case side, no issue. While retaining a bit of pressure on the firing button side, push down on the USB side. 

I then put the screws nearest the top connector in place and used hand pressure to compress the two covers together and tightened those two screws. I repeated that at the bottom. Then double-checked that the screws were all tight. Don't over tighten, it's easy to strip these small threaded screws. 

All done now, I then put the battery in place, the battery cover, and fired up. Works like a charm, no more rattle, and the silicone USB cover slips out easily. I'd rather have the issue of being careful to not lose the silicone cover than have the annoyance that it's in the way every time I recharge the battery through the micro USB port.

My thanks to for proving the Medium Gray Dovpo E LVT that I used for review and for this modification article. This is the first time I have been impressed enough with an Advanced Personal Vaporizer to request a second unit. has the Dovpo E LVT in stock.